1.  Select appropriate fasteners and pre-drill holes (1/8″ larger if temperatures will fluctuate).

2.  Allow for movement by not over tightening fasteners.

3.  Attach 1/4″ or thicker plastic directly to studded walls or ceilings with 16″ centers.  If the stud spacing is 24″ or greater, or the sheeting is supporting some      weight, the user should evaluate the need for a backing material.

4.  Do not rely on construction glues in place of mechanical fasteners.  Glues that bond will not stick to this plastic.  Pressure sensitive glues may be appropriate for some applications, however the user should use discretion.

5.  All seams must be backed by studding or some other support to prevent the seams from sagging.

6.  Butt the edges together and finish the seam with an “H” channel or caulk.



The plastic sheeting can be machined with any wood working tool.  For cutting, we recommend a skill saw or table saw using a 20 tooth carbide tipped blade.  Thin sheets of 1/8″ or less, score one side and break it if you prefer.  The plastic can also be cut using a router, saber saw, or hand saw.


Fasteners range from nails to stainless steel screws to plastic rivets.  We recommend galvanized construction screws in normal environments, and stainless steel screws in harsh environments.  Where a finished look and corrosion resistant fastener is needed, plastic rivets would be the best choice.

This is a very durable material and will hold up to high moisture conditions and most chemicals, so make sure to pick a fastener that is going to last as long as the plastic.

Expansion and Contraction is not a problem in situations where the temperature is held constant.  When installing in situations that experience a wide range of temperature variations, an allowance for expansion and contraction should be made at the fastener.  For this situation, pre-drill a hole 1/8″ larger than the diameter of the fastener used.

Seam Finishes…

“H” channels are available to butt seams and Corner molds are available to finish the corners.